Tips & Tricks for Installing Hinges No-mortise hinges make installing hinges easier. But there are still some tricks to getting the installation just right. To locate the hinges on the sides of the cabinet, I placed a piece of double-sided tape on each hinge (Figure 1). Then I pressed the door against the side of the cabinet, using an 1⁄8″-thick shim to provide clearance, as shown in Figure 2. With the hinges taped in place, I carefully opened the door and used the hinge as a template to drill the screw holes (Figure 3). Then it’s just a matter of removing the tape and screwing the hinges to the sides of cabinet.
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The Liberty 5/8 in. Non-Mortise Concealed Spring Hinge is made of mixed metal materials with a polished zinc finish. Installation is easy with mounting hardware included. 41 best installing non mortise cabinet hinges, installing non mortise hinges kindlmaine, mortise cabinet hinges cabinets matttroy, how to install non mortise hinges shapeyourminds, how to install non mortise hinges shapeyourminds, installing non mortise hinges kazinocopper, non mortise hinges with finial rockler woodworking and, non mortise.
A simple cabinet with solid brass butt hinges. (The door does fit perfectly, though it appears not to here, as it’s slightly ajar.) Butt hinges were widely used for inset doors in early-20th-century furniture and built-ins. They are available in a variety of styles, types, and sizes to suit many different applications. In the English shops where I worked in the 1980s, we always used plain unswaged hinges; we knew them as solid-drawn brass butts. These have a fixed pin and are not adjustable (except by means of various old-timer tricks; I’ll reveal these in a future post); as a result, they’re less handy than loose-pin hinges for hanging large doors.
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Still, they are ideal for most furniture and cabinets. A well-made hinge with a fixed pin has virtually no play and is a dream to open and close. Oddly, the practice in those English shops where I worked was to mortise the hinge only into the door stile, not the cabinet — a method that saves labor but is arguably less durable, especially for heavy doors, because the entire weight of the door is borne by the screws.
Contrast this with cases in which the hinge is mortised partly into the door frame and partly into the cabinet, where the bottom ledge of the mortise helps to support the door’s weight. Most American examples I’ve seen use this method, so it’s the method I will outline here using from Paxton Hardware.
Tools you will need: A handplane for fitting the door, chisel, mallet, pair of marking gauges, marking knife, temporary screws and screwdriver, square, pencil, drill and Vix bit, and a couple of coins for shimming 1. Lay out the hinge position For early-20th-century frame and panel doors, I use the rail-to-stile intersection as a guide. In this case I extended the rail position across the stile with a square, then measured 5/8″ in (i.e. Up or down from the bottom or top, respectively). This point became the outer vertical location of each hinge. Mark the stile Square the vertical starting lines you determined in step 1 around the edge of the hinge stile.